WALDEN, Colo. — The sentiment “Colorado is full” is often used to talk about the unprecedented growth happening in Denver, along the Front Range, parts of the mountains, and even the Eastern Plains.
But drive 3.5 hours northwest and you’ll find a community that’s struggling just to maintain its population – despite being only an hour from popular resort towns like Granby and Steamboat Springs. In fact, if Jackson County’s residents were spread out evenly, they’d each have a square mile to themselves, making what’s known as “North Park” one of the least densely populated regions in the state.
Walden (population: around 800) is the biggest town in this vast basin, which is flanked by the Medicine Bow Mountains, Never Summer Mountains, Rabbit Ears Range and Park Range. Winters are harsh (the record low is -49 degrees) but the views of mountains in all directions and endless blue skies are astounding.
“This is God’s country,” said longtime Walden resident and former mayor Tootie Crowner. “Nothing stops North Park. We help ourselves.”
This was proven back in the 1990s, when Crowner helped with the creation of a gas pipeline from Laramie to North Park (for a while, trucks had to bring natural gas to the isolated community). And today, she’s part of a group of residents working to bring younger people to a region with some of the best opportunities for outdoor recreation in the state.
“Walden shows the value of rural communities in keeping Colorado nostalgic, and keeping the spirit of what Colorado truly is,” said Jamie Brown, who owns the liquor store in town and also photographs and blogs about North Park.
This story is part of our weekly #9Neighborhoods series. Join us at noon on Friday for an Instagram tour of Walden and North Park. Is there a community you think we should check out next? Email webteam@9news.com.
A Colorado valley that’s essentially a “suburb of Wyoming”
Since it’s about 20 miles south of the Wyoming border, Crowner said it’s fair to call Walden – and North Park in general – essentially a suburb of Colorado’s northern neighbor. The radio stations you can get in town are generally from Laramie, and like Wyoming, most of Jackson County’s economic activity either comes from tourism or ranching.
North Park was unsettled until the 1870s, when miners who couldn’t make it rich in the Silver Rush came to what’s now Jackson County to establish cattle ranches. For a while, North Park was part of Larimer, Routt and Grand counties before it became Jackson County in 1909.
The historic courthouse, which still stands in Walden, was built in 1913. The town’s Main Street is home to numerous historic buildings that are also still standing, albeit in different iterations than they were before.
Countless people pass through Walden during all times of the year, since it’s right along the route between Fort Collins and tourist towns like Steamboat and Grand Lake. But, its relative isolation has led it to become known as a "Frontier Community."
“What that means is our economy’s bad,” said Suze Kanack, who was born in North Park and now helps write grants for the senior center.
Back in the 1990s, the town’s largest employer – a sawmill – shut down. Before that, the coal mine that employed quite a few members of the town’s population was also forced to close. A potential economic driver in the form of a proposed ski area near Cameron Pass never got off the ground, in part because of what Crowner said were concerns it could permanently change the community. She said the ranches surrounding town, meanwhile, have transitioned from being owned by local families to people across the country who employ workers from Peru.
“The money doesn’t stay here,” Crowner said.
It’s an hour-and-a-half to the nearest hospital, which means everyone from Jackson County’s sheriff to the town’s veterinarian doubles as an emergency medical technician. Medical helicopters also frequently fly from the popular off-road vehicle recreation area just outside of town to hospitals in bigger mountain communities.
But, Crowner said the EMTs in town are highly competent because they work a lot, and the medical helicopter crew is top notch, in the event something does happen.
“People have been taken out of here and lived who may not have survived had they been sitting right next to a hospital,” Crowner said.
Kanack said 55% of Walden’s residents are over 45 years old, and it’s the top county in Colorado when it comes to the percentage of residents who are older than 90. This can pose a problem because some of Jackson County’s biggest concerns stem from reliable transportation. A bus service drives elderly residents 12,000 miles a month to connect them with basic necessities like groceries.
“It’s all volunteers who keep these things running,” Crowner said. “EMTs get a stipend, all these boards that make big decisions are volunteers.
“When I was elected county commissioner, I was told this will actually cost you money. The man who had the job before me said he went from a big savings to a big hole in his pocket.”
Kanack and Melanie Leaverton, one of the co-owner of Timberline Builder’s Supply, are spearheading an effort to partner with the Orton Family Foundation Community Heart and Soul project. This essentially helps communities bring everyone together to determine their goals and how to accomplish them.
Colorado cities including Cortez and Golden have worked with Heart and Soul, and Leaverton said the goal is to get as many people involved in making the city better as possible.
"From a community standpoint, it would get us all involved instead of putting all the burden on the elected people," Leaverton said. "We're hoping if everybody starts working together because we know they can, we'll go in the same direction and make Walden a great place to be."
Among the priorities are bolstering the senior center and school, as well as revitalizing Main Street and adding more places for new residents to live.
"There are two kinds of frontier spirit," Kanack said. "One is being really poor and away from everyone, and the other is that we do care for everyone. The second is the frontier spirit I want to see."
An untouched area to get outside
Bron Deal doesn’t have to live in North Park. He's only been there a year, and when his uncle offered him the chance to work with Never Summer Nordic Inc. he jumped at the opportunity.
He's now working with people like Crowner, Kanack and Leaverton to revitalize Walden and start attracting people to the town.
"I can see more and more people starting to come here because the other communities are getting full," Deal said.
Kanack sees a future where people live in Walden but telecommute to jobs based in other parts of the state.
A big draw to the area is tourism. The nearby lakes are home to some of the best fishing in the state, and there are plenty of backcountry skiing opportunities near Cameron Pass. Never Summer Nordic operates backcountry yurts for skiers, hikers and hunters, and Deal says a lodge is in the works for people who want a warm shower.
He also operates one of the two food trucks in Jackson County (the other sells coffee on the north end of town).
"You have to be willing to be embraced," Deal said. "You have to go to community events and meet people."
Winter recreation is one of North Park's biggest draws. Deal is working with a company in Grand Lake to start shuttling rented snowmobiles between a trail connecting the two regions, and every year, the lake outside of Walden turns into a golf course.
About 30 minutes north of Walden is North Sand Hills Recreation Area, which has sand dunes that allow dirt bikes and ATVs. Thirty minutes west of Walden is State Forest State Park, which is home to Colorado's biggest moose population and high altitude trails that rival what you'll find in Rocky Mountain National Park.
"The sunrises and sunsets here are some of the best in the world," Crowner said.
Meanwhile, one would be remiss to talk about Walden specifically without mentioning the North Park Pioneer Museum. It's housed in a cabin that was built in 1883 and features artifacts from the families who have lived in the area for generations.
"It would make the Smithsonian jealous," Brown said.
"Everyone has pride, but North Park has pride times 10," Kanack said. "We love our community. We are No. 1 in our minds."
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