OURAY — Ice Lake Basin in southwestern Colorado is hidden miles from the nearest road with water a deeper blue than any tropical paradise.
The trail is a short drive south from the town of Ouray with a small parking lot at the base. Signs there warn of the hike ahead, which starts at nearly 10,000 feet and climbs the height of two empire state buildings in less than three miles. At more than six miles round-trip, this is one hike though that only gets more spectacular with every step.
The trail starts with a challenge, immediately climbing towards a waterfall and the old ruins of a mining operation. Wildflowers fill the open areas in the late summer.
Some people make the climb with llamas. Llamas carry supplies, often making it easier on people looking to camp along the high-altitude trail.
The trail opens into a giant basin right at tree-line. Snow continues to melt into streams that cascade down the surrounding cliffs. The area is covered in snow in the winter, but turns a lush green in the summer sunshine.
This lower basin is at 11,000 feet, so temperatures are cool, even at the peak of summer. Another layer of clothing will be needed for the final part of this ascent.
There is a brief break in the middle of the basin, which serves as a chance to prepare for the final climb to the lakes. It is also a chance to look at the streams. The rocks appear a ghostly white because they are covered in glacial flour.
As the glaciers melt, very fine ground rock flows into the lake. It is so light that this ground-up rock doesn’t sink. As the water flows out of the lakes at the top of the basin, it runs down into the streams below. When that water evaporates, it leaves the rocks coated in what looks like chalk.
The trail reaches one of the rock walls lining the lower basin after crossing the meadow. From there the hike resembles a long staircase to the upper basin. That effort is rewarded with a view from above of the basin below.
From there, it’s just a short (and relatively flat) walk to the first of the area’s two lakes.
The first hint of blue in the distance is startling. It stands out in sharp contrast to the green of the plants and the neutral tones of the surrounding mountains. The blue seems almost unnatural, like an oasis more than two miles in the sky.
Standing on the shore of Ice Lake the brilliant blue is captivating. A light shade of turquoise just a few feet from land gradually becomes darker. While the water is crystal clear against the shore, the glacial flour and the sun hitting it quickly turns the water opaque.
The wind can gust and swirl in the basin. Many people camping near this serene spot stayed huddled in sleeping bags during the peak of the afternoon, even on a day in August. Clouds seem so close, as they barely rise above the nearby peaks. Their shadows also constantly change the shade of the blue in the lake.
Bring a lunch, snacks and plenty of water to refuel while you take the time to appreciate everything there is about Ice Lake. Some will return down the trail the same way they arrived. But another path leads to an island in the sky.
While looking at Ice Lake, there are signs of a trail off to the right just beyond the stream that flows out of the lake. Fields of columbines line this steep and rocky path that is a half-mile to the next destination.
Rocks are loose and the trail is steep for a short section. The first view of an emerald lake with an island sitting in the middle of it soon comes into view.
Fewer people make the trip to this second lake. The shimmering green, in this case, is darker than the plants growing nearby.
The island sitting in the middle of these waters seems to be the perfect spot to enjoy a day in the mountains. (Side note: The water is very cold, so don’t try and swim!)
Marmots run around as the sun hits the rocks along the shore. Old mining rails, carts and wheels can be found nearby, too – a reminder of when people tried to make a living in an extreme environment.
For a different way home, look for a path that leads away from Island Lake and back towards the mountains in the distance. This is a loop that connects back to the main trail. The views of the nearby 12,000-foot and 13,000-foot peaks in the San Juan Mountains are a bonus at the end of this particular route – and well worth it.
